Martha’s Vineyard
Interview with Clayre Attisani
When I’m in Boston and check in with my friend Clayre (@clayreattisani), she’s usually on Martha’s Vineyard. I was lucky enough to have her show me around my first time on the island, and I’ve returned a few times since then. If you’re looking for fun, interesting, and ultra relaxing recommendations, Clayre’s your girl! You’ll become a fan of New England summer in no time.
photos provided by Clayre Attisani
what’s your relationship to Martha’s Vineyard?
I’ve been coming here since I was 5 or 6 years old. I came here every summer in my childhood, so I have a lot of formative, happy family memories here. As I’ve gotten older, I come here to get away and spend time by myself. The natural beauty is so amazing. It can be very fun but also peaceful.
what kind of traveler are you?
I like to see 1-2 of the big sites. Then, I like to see what’s really going on locally or get a sense of secret spots off the beaten path. I focus on experiencing the beauty of where I am, the food, and relaxing in the most interesting places. I also like to learn about my destination by visiting a museum or reading a book before I travel.
what kind of traveler would like Martha’s Vineyard?
Any sort of person can find something to like here. There is a huge range of activities to enjoy. The vacation population is also racially and socioeconomically diverse. If one of your biggest priorities is going out, you might not love it here. There isn't as much active nightlife compared to Nantucket, and the bars close pretty early—around 12:45. There are fun bars to check out if you don’t mind calling it a night around 1AM!
where to stroll & stay
If you’re visiting for a short period of time, people typically stay in Edgartown or Oak Bluffs at inn’s, b&bs, rentals, or hotels. I recommend renting a historic Edgartown home through Airbnb or checking the rates at the Harbor View Hotel. Vineyard Haven, Oak Bluffs, and Edgartown are the largest towns with town centers.
If the weather is good, I would build my day around the beach and explore a town center in the evening. I suggest either driving your own car over on the ferry or renting a car to explore the island fully. There is a bus system but it is difficult to reach all the best spots via bus, bike, or even moped.
Edgartown - Beautiful homes in the classic New England style. Great shopping and dining.
Oak Bluffs - Great neighborhood, excellent restaurants, and the oldest carousel in America. Has a bit of a touristy feel in the summer but many locals do live there.
Vineyard Haven - I grew up in this area so it is very close to my heart. Enjoy the low-key shopping in the town center or walk up Main Street to see the charming residential streets.
Aquinnah - There’s a great public beach and an area at the top of the cliffs with a lighthouse and casual, fish shack-like restaurants. Spend an entire day there.
West Tisbury, Chilmark - Beautiful, remote farmland. The beaches are not public, but your host may share their beach pass if you rent a property in one of those towns.
Menemsha - Commercial fishing harbor with a small town center and public beach. Spend a few hours there enjoying little shops and galleries, food options, and the water.
where to stroll & stay - beaches
Get to the beach before 11AM or the parking lots will be full! That’s even if the beach charges for parking.
Katama - South Beach - Popular, can get busy.
West Tisbury - Long Point - Pond on one side, surf on the other. May have to pay for parking.
Aquinnah - Gay Head - Cash only parking lot, beautiful cliffs!
State Beach - It’s right on the road, and many people don’t think it’s that great. But I love it. The water is amazing and super calm. The site of the “Jaws Bridge” from the 1975 classic.
Menemsha Beach- Small-ish beach with calm water.
Norton Point Beach in Katama or Cape Pogue Beach on Chappaquiddick Island - If you are planning to stay for a week or so, you and your party should consider splitting the drive-on pass for these beaches. You need a four wheel drive vehicle and someone who knows how to inflate and deflate tires for beach driving. If you’re traveling with a large party, it’s so fun to park for the day, grill out, and play beach games at one of these spots! Before you purchase a pass online, check to make sure the beaches are open as sometimes they’re closed for wildlife conservation.
Lambert’s Cove Beach - Located in West Tisbury, it's open to the public and dogs before 9:30am. This is a great place for a morning walk. If you are bringing a dog, they will love it here! Tons of dogs are out playing in the water between 7-9am.
what to do
Menemsha Sunset on Menemsha Beach - Bring a bottle of wine and grab takeout from Larson’s Fish Market to watch the sunset from the public beach! I recommend the crab cakes and the lobster bisque. Great activity for a chill night.
Hiking at Sepiessa Point- This is a great morning walk with beautiful views. There also are other protected lands to explore across the island, including Menemsha Hills Reserve.
Work out with Emily at Chilmark Community Center Classes (Practice and Yoga-ish Mobility). This is my favorite workout on the island.
Grey Barn and Farm - The Prufrock is their award winning cheese and my personal favorite. Buy everything for a charcuterie board at the farm stand or book a cheese tour with your group. Get there at 8AM to get the fresh bread and chocolate croissants.
West Tisbury Farmer’s Market - Every Wednesday and Friday 9-12AM at the Agricultural Society.
Chilmark Flea Market - Wednesday and Saturday between 9-2PM. There’s a similar Artisan’s Festival at the Grange Hall in West Tisbury.
Martha’s Vineyard Film Society - Hosts events in Vineyard Haven and across the island. Check out their website to see what’s playing during your stay.
Agricultural Fair - Classic country fair at the end of August.
Coop’s Bait & Tackle - If you like fishing, they’ll tell you what’s going on or take you out on a shore charter. Private guides across the island could take you out on a boat. You’d be looking for striped bass, blue fish, bonito (tuna), and false albacore.
Wind’s Up - You can rent a paddle board or kayak here.
Live Music at Featherstone Center for the Arts, The Port Hunter, The Ritz, MV Camp Meeting Association, or BeachRoad Weekend Music Festival- Summer tourists often miss out on the music scene due to lack of awareness. There are a ton of accomplished local bands and musicians who work on their music through the winter and perform in the summer!
where to eat
I rarely have a bad meal here because there is so much fresh local seafood and produce available on the island! Order clams, lobster, local oysters, striped bass, tuna, swordfish, or bluefish if on the menu. You can wear jeans anywhere on the island and dress them up or down depending on where you’re going. Nothing is crazy fancy. I generally think of the island as a “come as you are” sort of place.
casual dining
The Galley - Super casual fish shack. Get the chowder. If you don’t feel like a sandwich, I recommend the swordfish plate.
ArtCliff Diner - Currently closed for renovations but due to open soon. Get the bullseye–it’s a fishcake with two poached eggs, hollandaise, and arugula. It’s fricking amazing!
Little House Cafe - Great salads. Very vegan friendly like many places on the island.
Behind the Bookstore - Located (as the name suggests) behind a bookstore on Main Street in Edgartown. Good place for brunch with friends or to bring your computer to bang out a couple emails. You need to try the lavender latte and pop into Edgartown Books after for a beach read.
The Net Result - Order the house-made lobster bisque.
Larsen’s Fish Market - Big $4 crab cakes. They buy their bisque from the Net Result but add their own fresh lobster pieces. Highly recommend.
Scottish Bakehouse -Great place to pick up your sandwiches for the beach. I like an egg sandwich on whole grain gf bread with cheese, fakin’ bacon, onion, and spinach. The fakin’ bacon is like nothing else. I think it tastes better than regular bacon, and I love bacon. They also have gluten free baked goods!
The Seafood Shanty - Fun and has a full roof deck. Go with friends, order oysters/chowder/fried clams, and grab a beer.
Dos Mas - They make their own corn tortillas, and their coconut margarita is one of my favorite drinks on the island.
Atria Basement - Fun bar/basement restaurant with a full menu from upstairs including the iconic wok-fried lobster. Plus, 10/10 burger menu. Get the McRipoff- it’s so good! A little less casual than the other spots on this list. It would be fun for a girls dinner out.
upscale dining
Detente - in Edgartown. Order the peach salad when peaches are in season at the end of summer.
The Sweet Life - Great for brunch or dinner. I think this place is perfect for a romantic date, particularly in the off-season.
The Chilmark Tavern - Great vibes, pretty outdoor seating area. I love the mussels!
The Covington - Modern Italian fare with locally sourced ingredients. Accessible for those with dietary restrictions as it’s gluten free and vegan friendly. Get the mushroom bolognese. Another place for a group dinner or a date
Beach Road Restaurant - I recently returned here with my family, and everything was delicious. Get the cabbage!
19 Raw Oyster - Raw bar with great small plates/ceviches and sister restaurant to 19 Prime, a steakhouse I went to last summer. Another spot that would be fun for a girls dinner out!
where to go out
The Port Hunter - My favorite bar. Live music on the weekends and great cocktails!
The Atlantic - I don’t go out here often but they have live music and a full-service bar.
The Wharf - Fun spot for college students.
Loft - Same as above. If you’re looking for less of a college party feel, check it out when there’s live music. People of all ages buy tickets to check out the local bands.
The Ritz - Dive bar with live music.
where to shop
I would recommend walking around Edgartown or Vineyard Haven and seeing what catches your eye.
The Farmer’s Market - Artisanal products, soaps, lotions, and local goods. I use the sheep’s milk lotion and the beeswax moisturizer.
Salte - Fun home goods store in Edgartown. Cute glassware, coffee table books, and pillows. Check out their sister store Slate if you’re looking to splurge or to browse a colorful, curated clothing collection.
Kenworthy- Store in Edgartown with unique mid-range jewelry, hand-knit sweaters and sets, and lingerie. Owned by a sweet mother-daughter duo. I have a necklace and a beach skirt from here. This is one of my faves!
The Green Room - Nice sweaters, t-shirts, and jeans in Vineyard Haven. Surf and skate area downstairs. I got a pair of overalls here that I wear constantly. Good place for fall staples.
Magnetic North- Printed dresses, unique jewelry/swimwear, and small selection of home goods. I’ve gotten two bikinis from here. They have an amazing sale at the end of August!
Beach House - Home goods store in Vineyard Haven with amazing padded quilts, candlesticks, and ceramics. I am eyeing a quilt for my future apartment.
any other tips?
Though the Vineyard is thought of as a summer vacation island, people still enjoy it in the late summer and early fall. The water is still warm, and the island is less crowded. It’s beautiful! Private town beaches like Lucy Vincent in Chilmark and Lambert’s Cove in West Tisbury are still open to the public in September. Many restaurants and shops stay open through the beginning of October or November.
Visiting in the middle of winter is nice if you're looking for a quiet, cozy getaway. In the winter, try the Friday Burger Night at State Road Restaurant and bowl with your friends at Barn Bowl & Bistro. I also love a blustery walk on Lucy Vincent in the wintertime.
If you’re driving your car and taking it on the ferry, I would recommend booking your ferry reservation at least a month in advance at the height of the season. If you’re not driving, buy a ferry ticket at your nearest ferry station.
XX Thank You Clayre!
