Sardinia
Sardinia is like an imaginary couple full of contradictions that somehow works. Think a jet setting, art history major with her rock climber, cargo-wearing boyfriend. The island accommodates varied individual experiences — that friend who prefers to splurge on luxurious stays and museum tours? Your other friend who prefers to hike and backpack? They’ll both love Sardinia – the second largest island in the Mediterranean, known for its rich cultural history, rugged mountains, and stunning turquoise beaches. And the regional cuisine goes uncontested - it’s distinctive and delicious. I’d recommend it to anyone. Please note this guide caters to a relatively adventurous traveler and features mostly outdoor excursions.
where to stay
Navigating where to stay in Sardinia felt initially overwhelming due to the vast number of choices. After analyzing the best locations for outdoor excursions, my friend Megha and I decided to focus on the island's East side. Though we stopped for a night in San Teodoro, a town known for its nightlife, we prioritized time in the remote beach towns of Orosei and Budoni further down the coast.
To travel to Sardinia, we flew from the US to Milan before taking a short 1 hour flight to Olbia. Rent a car at the airport to facilitate easy town-hopping (We went with National). Book in advance so you receive an automatic car. If you’re going the adventurous route, make sure your driver feels comfortable driving on winding, rural roads overlooking cliffs and canyons.
Orosei - A charming town with quaint eateries, local churches, and winding alleyways. Perfect home base for day trips. We stayed on Via Nazionale, the main street! The main beach wasn’t as remote and serene as others we encountered.
Budoni - The 1-3 hour driving proximity to hikes, natural reserves, and other beaches was nice. However, this town was a bit more of a lowkey neighborhood, less of a pleasant vacation town. Next time, we would stay in Santa Maria Navarrese instead.
Cala Gonone - Pleasant seaside town. Start and end point for day hikes to hidden beaches, such as Cala Luna.
Baunei - Megha’s favorite town we visited. Time felt still here— extremely peaceful with incredible views. This town is one of Sardinia’s few Blue Zones, where a wide swath of the population is known to live to be over 100 years old. Bit too remote for an extended stay.
Nuoro - For a break from natural activities, visit Nuoro’s museums, shops, and eateries.
Orgosolo - Though we didn’t get a chance to stop here, this town is known for its artistic, political murals.
La Maddalena - Island hop around this archipelago via day boat excursion, right between Sardinia and Corsica.
Costa Smerelda - The most expensive location in all of Europe. Think luxury amenities and fine dining. Good for your friend who’s willing to shell out the big bucks for the finer things in life.
Cagliari - The largest city on this list and a solid choice if you prefer an urban environment. Stop to check out the ancient runes and Roman architecture, especially at the Archeological Museum of Cagliari.
what to see
Stone Age Ruins like Su Nuraxi of Barumini or Tiscali Mountain & Nuragic Village - Sardinia is known for its prehistoric artifacts as the island dates back to Phoenician times. Explore Bronze Age Nuragic Civilization by visiting nurages, the name for a residence or dwelling during this period.
Archipelago Day Tour from Palau - When in Sardinia, do as the Sardinians do. That is— get on a boat and explore the islands around the archipelago. We selected a guided day tour like this one as they take care of food, transport, and historic facts in half a day. You might be able to fit in a scuba or snorkel excursion.
Hiking - Keep up your fitness with hikes ranging 1-4 hours, often ending at secret beach locations. Read further for suggestions.
MAN_Museo d'Arte Provincia di Nuoro - Liked the quiet, curated exhibits.
where to eat
I loved everything here - Sardinian pasta like fregola and malloreddus, grilled octopus, sea urchin, fresh fish of the day, all paired with a glass of perfectly dry Vermentino. These recommendations are Orosei-specific.
Central Bar Di Solinas Anna Maria - Our go-to morning espresso shop. Great croissants.
Su Recreu 2 Panetteria Pasticceria - Perfect for cookies and focaccia to bring home.
Trattoria Moderna da pupo - Delicious seafood. I ordered the fresh lobster over linguini. Docking points for incredibly rude waitstaff.
Bar Yesterday - The go-to spot in Orosei for a pre-dinner spritz with complimentary bar snacks.
Mama’s- In Budoni. Pleasant restaurant with friendly staff and fresh seafood. Accommodated our walk in with 0 reservation.
I Grani - For some reason, this was one of the most memorable meals we had in Nuovo. The incredibly fresh ingredients proved a refreshing break from our diet of mostly carbohydrates.
where to move
If your ideal type of beach is remote and rugged—with mountains in the distance, look no further. These aren’t sprawling, flat beaches with hordes of people - they’re idyllic, sheltered coves that feel like secret spots. You could spend every day at a different beach. Most are driveable but be prepared to hike or take a small boat to some locations.
Cala Goloritzé - Slightly more strenuous hike with a wait time until we could begin. Well worth it. Bring your water, a small towel, and bikini. You’ll want to lay out after a hot hike and marvel at the pristine waters.
Cala Luna - One of our favorite beaches accessible via moderate hike or boat ride. The marble cliffs felt otherworldly.
Oasi Bidderosa - Natural reserve with multiple beaches. We spent 6-7 hours straight here. Reserve a parking spot in advance via their website.
Gorrupu Canyon - Though we didn’t end up hiking this canyon, the view makes an excellent vista stopping point. Gorgeous yet slightly terrifying place to drive.
