CA Central Coast
If you’re visiting California, a Central Coast road trip between Los Angeles and San Francisco is an absolute must. It’s where I first “grasped” California – that oh, this is the California that the songs, movies, and books are all talking about.
I can’t write about the Central Coast without writing about Big Sur. Henry Miller wrote, “Big Sur is the California that men dreamed of years ago… the face of the earth as the Creator intended it to look.” Indeed - to me, Big Sur encapsulates the mythic essence of California itself. When you’re there, you feel as though you’re constantly on the verge of some spiritual experience. And the water is mesmerizing. The way it twists and bubbles and shapeshifts from an icy arctic blue to deep indigo…it’s something I’ve never seen anywhere else.
Between long stretches on the road, take time to explore the charming coastal towns from Carmel to Santa Barbara. The quaint boutiques, restaurants, and beaches provide perfect respite from your car trip.
where to stop on the way
To allow for enough time to see all the sights, split your road trip in two parts and stay for a night or two in San Luis Obispo or in Big Sur. I highly recommend Carmel and San Luis Obispo as my top towns to stop and to stretch your legs. For cheaper lodging, stay in Monterey (close to Carmel) and Cayucos (close to San Luis Obispo).
Santa Cruz - Super close to San Francisco. Watch surfers and stroll the boardwalk in this chill, laid back surf town.
Carmel - This upscale town is known for its famous fairytale cottages, oceanfront beach walk, and cute boutiques/eateries. Last time I was there, I enjoyed watching dolphins at Carmel Beach during sunset!
Monterey - This town is known as the location for the show, Big Little Lies, and as home to writer, John Steinbeck, Check out Cannery Row, a historic street featured in the Steinbeck novel.
Solvang - Stop by to see a Californian town full of Danish style architecture. I learned that Danish Americans established themselves here in the 1900s.
Paso Robles - Inland from Pismo Beach and SLO area. Check out Paso Robles for the numerous, local wineries!
Cayucos/Pismo Beach - Hidden gem in the area. It’s definitely less built out than SLO with only one main street. However, there’s great beachfront access and fun antique shops.
San Luis Obispo* - I’m obsessed with SLO. Great vibes, great food, and the friendliest people. Definitely book a night here, grab dinner/drinks, and explore the town by foot! It’s the perfect weekend getaway.
Santa Barbara - Another quintessential, coastal CA town. You’ll get the sense that you’ve reached SoCal when you see the beach. Check out Isla Vista to gawk at how some college students really live.
where to stay
As you’ll find with most lodging around Big Sur, lodging is pricy due to the limited inventory and coveted geography. I’ve also stayed in Best Westerns in Monterey and Pismo Beach for an equally comfortable time. If you want to stay outdoors, pitch a tent, book a yurt/cabin, and camp near the coast at assorted campgrounds. If you plan to camp, make sure to reserve a campsite months in advance.
Cypress Inn - Traveling with a dog? Cypress Inn in Carmel is a dog friendly hotel, formerly owned by actress Doris Day. Definitely expensive but nice if you’re traveling with parents or travel companions who’d appreciate a nicer hotel.
Lucia Lodge - Pull over at the parking lot/ gift shop if only for the view. In my opinion, the Lucia Lodge area is where Big Sur’s coastline truly starts to sparkle.
Deetjen’s - A classic Big Sur inn that’s stayed true to its 1930s roots. Imagine wood paneled rooms, vintage bedding, and home cooked meals!
Ragged Point Inn - Closer to the end of Big Sur, Ragged Point offers scenic views from cliffside windows. Very cozy if you’re traveling with a romantic partner.
Kirk Creek Campground - Oceanside Big Sur campground with limited inventory. Never stayed here but once walked through to check out the beautiful view.
Fernwood Campground - Another private campground that I considered for a stay. Comes with rustic amenities and cabins. Very hard to reserve in advance.
Madonna Inn - Of all the spots on your list, you MUST visit or stay at Madonna Inn once you reach SLO. I’ve never seen another hotel like this place—it’s bright pink, and every room is designed around a different 60s maximalist theme. Think names like “Jungle Rock” and “Sugar and Spice.” Multiple shows and music videos have been filmed here. Make sure to grab some slices of cake to go!
what to see - nature
Download the AllTrails app for guides to the best hikes!
Steamer Lane - Famous Santa Cruz hillside lookout to watch surfers.
Carmel Beach - Peaceful walk for a morning or sunset stroll.
Point Lobos - Easy hike near Carmel.
Garrapata State Park - One of the first hikes that pops up in Big Sur when you’re driving down from San Francisco. If you like flowers, it’s known for its Calla Lilly Valley.
Bixby Creek Bridge - The famous Big Little Lies bridge. Try to play “California Dreaming” or “Cold Little Heart” on the stereo while driving over it.
McWay Falls & Trail - Picturesque waterfall with accompanying hike.
Partington Cove Trail - Super easy trail that leads to coastal access.
Pfeiffer Beach - Known for its craggy rock formations and the Keyhole Arch sunset. Photographers will flock to a specific rock formation to wait for the sunset light to hit just at the right angle to light up the rock’s archway. The beach is somewhat difficult to find, so follow these instructions.
Andrew Molera State Park - Hiking if you like views. Easy to pull over along this coastal state park.
Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park - Hiking if you like entering a more enclosed park for a day…and tall trees!
Piedras Blancas Rookery - I stumbled across this elephant seal habitat by chance with a friend. One of the most memorable sights…hordes of seals lying about! I loved watching them socialize, swim, and sleep.
Channel Islands National Park - Technically not on the route. This national park requires a ferry reservation out of Ventura, near Santa Barbara. Plan to spend a day here. You’ll be in awe of the different whales you’ll see from the ferry and of the jaw dropping ocean views once on the islands.
what to see
Santa Cruz Boardwalk / Amusement Park - A bit kitschy, but a great place to try fun rides, grab funnel cake, and look out at the ocean!
Scenic Road - In Carmel. This oceanside walk is the best way to view the elaborate houses dotting the coastline, including the famous Clinton Walker House by Frank Lloyd Wright.
Cannery Row/Fisherman’s Wharf - In Monterey. Not much going on here, but a nice little pit stop.
Hearst Castle - Located in San Simeon near SLO, this is a huge estate (castle!) turned museum. Formerly inhabited by William Hearst, the founder of the Hearst Communications.
Missions (Carmel, SLO, Santa Barbara) - Learning about the history of Spanish missions is an integral part of spending time in California. Not the prettiest of histories as the Spanish forced the indigenous communities to labor and to convert to Christianity.
Santa Barbara Courthouse - Stop in and marvel at the Spanish architecture!
Jeff Shelton Architect - I actually discovered this architect on Pinterest and was drawn immediately to his tile based, Spanish style buildings. Take a walking tour to see his unique designs using their map.
where to eat
Cottage Restaurant - This restaurant feels like coming over to your grandma’s house for some soup, tea, and cookies (if your grandma were Beatrix Potter). Complete with old fashioned decor and tablecloths. Get the award winning artichoke soup!
La Bicyclette - French style Bistro in Carmel.
Il Tegamino - I came here with two friends once for a pre-birthday meal! Super warm ambiance and yummy pasta, including gluten free options!
Big Sur Bakery - Grab a pastry post-hike on your way down the coast.
Coast Big Sur - Expensive cafe meets gift shop. Grab something cheap and take in the impressive rooftop views.
Nepenthe Restaurant - Expensive dining but incredible views of Big Sur.
Bliss Cafe - In SLO. Vegan friendly, healthy cafe.
Luna Red - Patio restaurant in the heart of SLO. String lights, huge tables, and sharing dishes like paella and huge salads. Perfect for a big group!
Big Sky Cafe - Very friendly SLO restaurant that’s nice for a filling brunch. Sad to see it’s closed but keeping it on the list in case it reopens.
Frog & Peach Pub - Spent hours at this fun, British themed dive bar for a friend’s birthday weekend. There was a pretty good live band and an airy patio (SLO).
The Hidden Kitchen - In Cayucos. Highly recommend trying this delicious waffle, tacos, and smoothie restaurant. It’s plant based/gluten free, and everything is made with their signature blue corn flour.
Natural Cafe - In Santa Barbara. My friend who lived here for a few years took me there for the first time, and I could not stop thinking about the salad and carrot cake years after. I have returned for those same items since.
any other tips?
Definitely drive or rent a car for this trip. If you need to travel up or down the coast sans car, I also highly recommend taking the affordable Amtrak train, which stops in Bay Area, San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, LA, San Diego, and other towns in between.
Before you embark on this road trip, make sure to download an Offline Map in Google Maps that spans the entire Big Sur region. You will lose phone service for most of Big Sur and should rely on the offline map.
