Vancouver
Interview with Jenny Fan
Vancouver has been on my to-visit list for a while, and with the winter season upon us, there's no one better to consult about the city than my friend Jenny (@sujujenny)! A fellow foodie and adventure enthusiast, Jenny has traveled extensively and has an especially keen eye for the best Chinese/Shanghainese restaurants in town. For outdoor recommendations, best neighborhoods, and of course, best restaurants, read on!
photos provided by Jenny Fan
what’s your relationship to Vancouver?
I moved to Vancouver when I was 3 years old with my mom. When we first moved, we lived in this area called Richmond, which is where a lot of Chinese immigrants first go. It’s really nice because everyone there speaks Chinese, and a lot of road signs are in Chinese. So, it’s a very smooth transition to go from China to Canada. I stayed there 4 years before I went back to Shanghai, where I was for another 4 years. I came back to Vancouver for middle school and high school. In high school, I moved to Vancouver West, which is closer to Downtown Vancouver.
After college, I realized how nice Vancouver is compared to cities I’ve lived in in America. Every time there’s a break, I try to fly back home for a little bit and get some good food.
what kind of traveler are you?
I go through different phases of traveling. Right now, I’m in my ocean and island phase of traveling. When I travel, my ideal destination would be a beach area with good snorkeling or scuba diving, like Belize or the Galapagos. I’ve also had my European city phase where I wanted to visit all the cities, tour the architecture, and learn about the history. Right now, I am trying to prioritize seeing different fish in different places!
what kind of traveler would like Vancouver?
There are two different archetypes of traveler. One would be someone who’s trying to get good Asian food, and you’re a huge foodie. Vancouver has some of the best dim sum in the world because a lot of Hong Kong chefs left Hong Kong for Vancouver around 1997. If you’re a foodie and want a relaxing time, Vancouver is a great place to hang out for a weekend.The other one would be someone who likes the outdoors. It’s similar vibes to Seattle with hikes and islands nearby where you can do day trips. If you’re into mountains, you can go skiing in the winter.
where to stroll & stay
Most hotels you’ll find downtown. If you’re trying to stay in Kerrisdale, West Vancouver, or Richmond, I’d go for an Airbnb. If you’re going to Yaletown or Coal Harbour, it’s 50/50 depending on your personal preference. If you’re going with a group of friends, West Vancouver is known for its beautiful mansions, so you could rent out a house if that’s your vibe.
Yaletown - In Downtown Vancouver. If I were to live in Vancouver right now, that’s where I would choose to live. It’s close to the water, downtown, going out spots, and in general a very peaceful neighborhood.
Coal Harbour - In Downtown Vancouver. It’s similar to Yaletown but the age of people living there is a little bit older. It has good views, skyscrapers, and things like that. Regardless of where you stay in Downtown, it’s probably a good location because Downtown is so small.
Kerrisdale - Maybe I’m a little biased because I went to school close to there, but it’s a nice, residential neighborhood. If you want to have a quiet time that’s further away from downtown or come for cherry blossoms or foliage, this is where many of the residential homes are.
West Vancouver - If you’re into nature, you could stay here because most of the hikes are near that area and across from the Lions Gate Bridge. It’s also closer to ferries.
Richmond - If your goal is to go for a weekend to get Chinese food, I would stay here.
Gastown - This is the “hipster” area of town and it’s known for a steam clock. It’s fun to just walk around here. Tons of cute cafes, cute red brick buildings, and lights.
what to do
Dim Sum - When I'm in Vancouver, I’ll always try to get dim sum. A lot of people say the dim sum in Vancouver is better than dim sum in Hong Kong due to the proliferation of chefs. There’s a lot of good places. Search for one near where you’re staying, or for best bets, find one in Richmond.
Stanley Park - I love to go on a walk in this area. It’s super pretty and by downtown. You could do Stanley Park, shopping, stop by the Christmas Market, and Gastown all in one day.
Christmas Market - This is the touristy activity that I still recommend people go to. I think it happens all of December. Located downtown by the water, it’s so cute and inspired by German Christmas markets. All of the shops have little German titles, there’s German food, and there’s a bunch of holiday spirit. I’ve already got emails about buying tickets!
Granville Island - In summer, you should definitely do jet skiing here. It’s touristy but still pretty fun. You can ride a jet ski around Vancouver - see West Vancouver, seals, and beautiful homes by the coast.
what to do - outdoors
Van Dusen Gardens - They have a festival of lights from Nov 25-Jan 2, and it’s basically a winter wonderland on steroids. Super beautiful!
Kitsilano Beach - If the weather is nice, I would recommend walking here. You get a super nice view of the water and the city.
Vancouver Island - Also popular.
Bowen Island - It’s a 30 minute ferry from the city but the terminal ferry is a bit further out. I think you can bring your car on the ferry too.
Grouse Mountain - It’s a super classic Vancouver hike where you go up vertically and climb a bunch of stairs. You end up going all the way to the peak of the mountain but it’s a 2-3 hour hike of straight uphill. Alternatively, you could also take the gondola up, and it’s really pretty too! That’s what I did last time.
Victoria - Also very pretty for a day trip.
Joffre Lakes - Really good hike that I love. It’s around 2-3 hours away.
Whistler - If you’re skiing, you have to go to Whistler. There’s a really cute little town. I don’t love skiing but I just did snowmobiling. I stayed in the little town for a night, and you also can visit hot springs there. That’s my non outdoorsy person alternative.
where to eat
Hong Kong BBQ Master ($) - It’s hard to find but it’s essentially a small barbecue duck place that’s under a supermarket in Richmond. You have to wait in line but it has some of the best Chinese barbecue duck ever. When I was a kid, my mom would go get it for me, and we would have it for dinner alongside some veggies she made. It’s a good protein dish for dinner!
Top Shanghai Cuisine Restaurant ($) - I think they have the best Shanghainese soup dumplings in America (I’m from Shanghai). Din Tai Fung xiao long bao isn’t super authentic because the outside skin is too thin. Traditional Shanghai xiao long bao is a little thicker so they can hold more soup. There’s usually Shanghainese people in the restaurant, so that’s when you know it’s authentic.
Mott 32 ($$$) - If you want to splurge on good Chinese food in a beautiful, upscale restaurant, this is the place. I love it because of the vibes. I feel that a lot of the time in North America, there’s preconceptions around how authentic restaurants have to be run down, but this place really defies that. Luxurious, upscale, but also very, very good. This is one of the reasons why I like Vancouver too - you see them break through stereotypes that you might have in America.
Anh and Chi ($$) - Incredible, sort of upscale Vietnamese food. Super cute interior and close to some boutique shopping.
Di Beppe ($$) - Good pizza in Downtown Vancouver.
Yuwa ($$$) - Good expensive Japanese food but very unique and traditional. It’s upscale but not omakase, which is rare to find in the US.
Kokoro ($) - Casual udon spot. It’s very different from what you would expect from soupy udon. Their classic dish is one where you dip udon in a thicker broth.
Phom Penh ($) - Super old school Viet/Cambodian place in Chinatown. They don't take reservations, and the area is a bit sketchy–but food is good.
Ask for Luigi ($$) - Best pasta in Vancouver and close to Gastown.
Soft Peaks ($) - Really good ice cream in Gastown. They have this honeycomb one that’s SO GOOD!
Green Leaf Sushi ($$) - I would recommend this if you’ve never had aburi style sushi before. Vancouver is the birthplace for this style (specifically salmon oshi), and this place specializes in it.
Japadog ($) - Super good Japanese style hot dog. Several locations throughout Vancouver.
Kirin Restaurant ($) - Good classic dim sum with a couple locations across the city.
Miku ($$$) - Basic but honestly still good (Beyonce and JayZ came here). It's in a super cute location by Canada Place. However, you need a reservation, which can be hard to get. They practically popularized Salmon Oshi and started a whole sushi revolution in Vancouver. It's an ~establishment.
where to go out
Vancouver is not known for a clubbing or partying nightlife scene. It’s more of a casual, get together with friends type of city. My friend who lives there recommends going to a bar first, talking to people, and seeing where the night takes you!
Gastown - Many bars there, and a lot of young people go out here. Get Soft Peaks ice cream after!
Botanist Bar - Inside Botanist restaurant. Good cocktails.
Keefer Bar - In Chinatown. Really unique interior, also good cocktails.
where to shop
Vancouver is home to Lululemon, Aritzia, and Arc'teryx. If you already are a Lululemon buyer, Vancouver has cheaper prices than in the US. The pricing is the same, but you get the benefit of the currency difference. I call these Vancouver specialty products to bring home; my friends always ask for the Align leggings. When I was a kid, we never had an Abercrombie and Fitch phase, we had a Lululemon and Aritzia TnA phase. The cool thing was to have a TnA hoodie.
Gastown - Good for boutiques and streetwear stores with a range of prices. In the past, they had Lululemon Lab where you could try out products the brand was testing out but weren’t in stores yet.
Pacific Center and Robson - If you’re trying to go to a classic place with all the stores.
Kerrisdale and Richmond - There are a ton of Asian cosmetic stores, and the pricing is actually quite good.
any other tips?
If you’re based on the West Coast, it’s great for a weekend trip. If you’re on the East Coast, I feel you would need a stronger reason to go to Vancouver, like a week long ski trip.
Vancouver is known for pretty distinct seasons. Springtime (April, May) is super pretty because there are cherry blossoms. A lot of the residential streets in Vancouver West will have cherry blossoms, and it will be pink for two weeks in May. In fall, the foliage is also very beautiful, and it’s comparable to East Coast foliage. Summer is nice too because it doesn’t get too hot. If you’re trying to go island hopping, I’d try to do that in the summertime.
XX Thank You Jenny!
